ShareThisQ: We had a major water leak in our 9-year-old, two-story condo that caused us to have to tear down an entire side of the house to the sheet-rock walls to repair enormous rot and black mold.
We were told there wasn't any 1-1/2-inch rib edge or drip edge at the peaks of the roofs. Every winter we had leaks from melting snow and every summer we had leaks from heavy rains. Water eventually came in above the indoor woodwork over the dining-room patio doors. The patio doors also rotted. This has been going on for five years.
My question: Did the missing rib edge/drip edge cause all this damage over the years? All the freestanding condos are built the same and have the same water leaks and the same missing rib edge/drip edge at the peaks. If this problem could easily be fixed by adding the drip edge (the builder apparently forgot), this could be a miracle fix.
We would like to have the drip edge installed, unless it is too late.
A: The aluminum or vinyl drip edge is an integral part of the roof covering to prevent water damage to the leading edge of the roof's sheathing and fascia board.
The fascia is the board attached to the ends of the roof's rafters and is normally covered with aluminum or vinyl before installation of rain gutters.
A drip edge is also used at the gabled ends of the roof at what you referred to as the peak of the roof. Here the end rafters, the rake trim, extend out past the building to protect the gabled wall from the weather. As water drains from the sloped roof toward the gutters, the water will curl up and under the overhanging edge of the roof in a process known as capillary action. Capillary action is the result of water tension, which tends to hold the water droplets together until gravity overcomes it and forces the water to continue a downhill flow.
If the roof is wood sheathing or fascia is exposed to water, it will eventually decay. I would think there are larger problems than the simple drip-edge solution. In areas of the country that experience severe winters (where there is a chance for ice dams to form on the roof), the roof should have a barrier on the sheathing, something such as Grace's Ice & Water Shield.
With the self-adhesive applied shield installed under the shingles, the roof's overhang and portions of the attic area will be protected from potential leaks due to shingle damage or from the buildup of snow and ice.
Other areas of concern are window and door openings, which are exposed to the weather.
Without proper flashings that are installed at the time of construction, water can enter the exterior walls through gaps between the window or doorframes and the exterior wall coverings. An example would be a second-floor patio door or window that is located above a first-floor patio door. A leak at the second-floor opening would lead to decay damage to the door and walls below. An especially tricky area to flash is the sill or threshold of a patio door. When the damaged wall coverings and the door were removed, the flashing details should have been inspected and repaired as required.
Unfortunately, there are no easy fix-it solutions to your problems. And remember: caulking is not a substitute for proper flashing.
(Dwight Barnett is a certified master inspector with the American Society of Home Inspectors. Write to him with home improvement questions at C. Dwight Barnett, Evansville Courier & Press, P.O. Box 286, Evansville, Ind. 47702 or e-mail him at d.Barnett(at)insightbb.com.)
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